#anAWWyear - August 1947: Make your own "Vagabond Bag and Beret " and more

Vintage issues of magazines such as the Australian Women's Weekly contain great free instructions and patterns for all kinds of crafts, usually homewares or items of clothing and accessories. Each month I'll be showing a few that are available and also making one or more - preferably ones which can also use up stash, as that is a goal of mine for 2017.  

August 1947 contains only a few craft projects.  For knitters, there is a Knitted Box Coat  which is "made with a firm stitch which gives it tailored lines and makes it suitable for sports wear, for the office, or home". It is written to fit a 34-35" bust. 

Australian Women's Weekly, Aug 9 1947  p51.

There is also a rather neat convertible sewing apron/bag - wear it while you craft, and then it becomes a project bag. The subhead suggests it would make a lovely gift. The fabric is all cut as sized rectangles, and as the different sections - inside pocket, waistband, etc - could easily be made from contrast fabric it might be a useful way to use up some fat quarters and scraps.

Australian Women's Weekly, Aug 23 1947, p53. 

The craft project I chose to make this month was this cute beret and bag set. 

Why yes, my spring wardrobe does need some variety.
Australian Women's Weekly,  Aug 9 1947, p49.

The picture illustrating the instructions wasn't very clear but the vibe was enough to make me want to try.  The copy was full of how fresh and wonderful this pair was, and promised me that the bag would leave me with a hand free.  The instructions said they could be made in felt or fabric, and as I had a length of green felt in the stash I went with that. I am still not sure what makes this a 'Vagabond' bag, as sadly my online search results were made difficult by the bag brand of that name. 

The bag is made from a long rectangle, with pleats added in the short sides. 

My pleat pinned, waiting to be tacked down.

In order to actually get this done (and as the felt wouldn't fray) I decided to hand sew it all so I could do it during times when I was at the park/watching TV/etc and wouldn't need to rely on my increasingly rare time on the sewing machine. 

Once the pleats are in place, the rectangle is folded so the pleated sides are together at the top, and you sew 9 ½ inches up each side. I would recommend slightly less, as Miss 1947 may have had a more slender arm. At that measurement I couldn't easily push the bag all the way to my elbow. It also would restrict the size of what you can put in the bag, as unless I am very much misinterpreting the instructions the only way in and out are through the side holes. 

Sewing up the side seams.

The top is finished with another strip of felt with studs added. I had a minor crisis here, as while attaching one stud the die decided to get so stuck to the stud it would not come off. I had to cut it away and sew together two pieces each with two studs. As a result it looks slightly unbalanced, but I don't mind too much. Much better than it would look with a big silver die base in the centre. 

The finished vagabond bag.

The beret instructions are typical of patterns of this era when they aren't just rectangles - a basic labelled diagram that is not at all in scale. The beret is a high halo style designed to be worn back on the head, and has two felt bows decorating the side. The instructions, once the pieces are cut out, are very simple. It suggested adding a stiffening, but as my felt was solid I decided that applied if one was using other fabric, and ignored it. Perhaps my halo would be crisper if I had not.

The finished beret. 

The inside of the beret's band is finished with petersham ribbon to stop it stetching out. 

Interior view showing petersham ribbon (and a close up of one of the bows)

And in action: 

The bag is designed to hang off your forearm, as shown here.

The beret sits at the back of the head. 

Ready to step out. 

Like wearing a fluffy blanket: my shawl-poncho

Last year at one of the regular craft days I attend, we had a swap day where we brought craft supplies from our stash that we no longer wanted. It was a fantastic idea and I got rid of a lot of paper crafting supplies and some fabric. Dangerously, I was the only person who wanted to take yarn. So I perhaps took a little more than I should have.

Most was one or at most two balls of the same yarn, but there was a lot of one slubby blue yarn (an acrylic/mohair blend). I thought there were 6 balls (turned out there were actually 8!)

Uneven size, fluffy texture... but that colour is perfect for me!
This is all that is now left of those 8 balls

Now usually with a textured yarn that does that slubby look where it is thin in places and large and fluffy in others, all I'd make is a scarf. Maybe. But unless I was planning on making the longest scarf ever, that would only take one or two balls and I certainly didn't want three matching scarves. I knew with that much to work with, I wanted to make a garment. I wasn't going to use such a textured yarn for a cardigan though. I pondered a shawl, but I've never managed to get a shawl to be of any use except when curled up on a couch reading. I kept pondering and worked on other projects, but I knew I had to do something with it because I adore that colour.

One day two months ago, doing a colour exercise where I was looking through all my pattern books looking at yarn colours, I came across this interesting pattern in my copy of Rustic Modern Crochet and immediately realised that it was the inspiration I'd been looking for.  

Sand and Shells pattern by Yukimo Alexander.
(I took this photo from my book copy because that seemed less dodgy than adding one from elsewhere;
 for better pics see the ravelry link above)

While this is made up in a totally different style and weight of yarn, the overall schematic of the garment was what I wanted - effectively a poncho. Crochet an arrangement of rectangles and sew together in two places to form armholes. And shawl-poncho is born. 

So cozy

I didn't use the stitch patterns given because the detail would have been wasted on such fluffy yarn. I did keep the contrast in density, making the upper side in a more open mesh, and I worked my dimensions from the detailed diagram for the project. 

You can see the division into the three areas more clearly in this photo.
Actually, this fluffy yarn disguises a lot of details. 

As I said, the construction is very simple, and once you've finished the actual crochet, all that is needed is to join 6-8cm at a point on each side to create the arm holes.

Rear view.

I get all the comfort and warmth of a fluffy shawl without having to worry about keeping it wrapped around me. It is the perfect garment for those days when I'm a bit chilly but don't want a full warm sweater (and in Sydney, we get more of those days than you'd think). I intended this to be an 'only around the house' piece, but I've now worn it out a few times on those intermediate weather days. So happy to have used some swap day yarn for a snuggly addition to my wardrobe.

Vintage Snood Pattern reviews: a belated Snoodtember roundup

As part of Tanith's #snoodtember initiative, I wrote a guest post for her blog, giving some quick read-only reviews of some free crochet snood patterns from 1930s and 1940s Australian papers. In doing so, I got intrigued by several and decided to try them.

I have crocheted two snoods before, using patterns that other people had discussed.  I tried the 'Perky Snood', seen and well discussed at the lovely Bonita's blog Lavender and Twill in a white stash yarn and that saw a lot of wear during #snoodtember. I really like this pattern as it has minimal shaping and it is easy to get into a groove.

The Perky Snood during Snoodtember

Back view of the Perky Snood

I made this pattern in black but made the elastic a little too tight so it kept creeping off my head. I decided to use this snood to experiment with ribbon instead of elastic and discovered that I am Not A Fan of that method.  This pattern does require a bit of attention as the chain lengths vary each round, but it does produce a lovely back view.

Back view of the snood showing its centre detail

Having made two different snoods, both fairly basic meshes, although one worked in the round, I was eager to try some variations.


Lacey Snood with Rosettes:

Weekly Times, Aug 6 1947

The snood itself was not that much of a variation from a basic mesh apart from the central curtain ring (I used a 2cm split ring from a key ring I was decluttering) and it worked up quickly. I used Sullivan's Royal Rayon 3-ply crochet yarn and my trusty vintage 'Stratnoid 13' hook (2.25m) The instructions were basically complete, although I decided that it was meant to be worked in completed not spiral rounds and hence needed slipstitching to the centre of a loop to start each new round. (The original was a bit vague.) It certainly looks neat this way.

Lacey Snood, without rosettes yet, and temporarily attached with a ribbon. You can see the foundation 'curtain ring' at the centre back. 

Rosette from the lacey snood pattern, 

I only did one rosette and was actually really impressed with how much volume was achieved from this pattern. With two able to be 'propped' up against each other thanks to the central metal rings, it could give a suitably frilly look. The contrast white bands at the edges of the two layers of frills is very effective.

I only made one as I could already tell that the whole snood wasn't going to work for me. I find the way the metal ring looks at the back of the snood a bit odd and it just isn't to my taste. I can see how it would suit other people though.  (I didn't follow the instructions to crochet over the elastic for the same reason. I think it is there because the pattern says to do the snood in coloured thread, and this way the elastic wouldn't stand out in the very wide edge holes.)

Snood and rosette, flat. What will I do with this?

Snood and Collar Set

Weekly Times, Dec 6 1944

I made three attempts to start this. I did some detailed tension calculations, working out how many rows would be in the completed diameter and taking an average diameter size from several other existing snoods, hence getting a number of rows per inch  -- and I couldn't make that happen. Two different hook sizes with one yarn, and one with a different yarn and none of them worked. I know which way I need to go on hook and yarn for my next attempt but it may never happen as I abandoned it in favour of...

Basic Crochet Snood

This pattern was incredibly basic- make a mesh and follow these size instructions. It didn't even have a picture, as it was an answer to a reader request rather than a featured pattern. In my review I said that as the sizing information was so complete, one could do any density of mesh or even a solid pattern to these specifications and get a good result. I decided to test that by using one of my favourite mesh patterns - a trellis stitch  - and I love the final result.

The trellis stitch underway.

I used yarn leftover from a cardigan I'd made - I remember it was a sock yarn but can't recall brand or exact details- and a 3mm hook. It handily used up all the yarn I had left with maybe 25cm over. Perfect stashbusting.

Back view of the completed trellis stitch snood

I used their instructions for where to put the fullness and gathering, and did the ribbon binding at the top too. I am so happy with how it looks on me.

Finished! I missed doing so in #snoodtember though

The snood on a display head; you can see the ribbon binding more easily here. 

I have a sneaking suspicion that unless I am testing another specific pattern, I'm just going to make up whatever stitch suits me into this size for any future snoods I need. I do at heart prefer working up my own patterns and so this middle ground - taking a workable sized template and filling it with whatever stitch pattern I prefer - suits my crochet style.

I hope these further reviews help if anyone is thinking of venturing into the world of vintage crochet snood patterns.

Bavarian crochet and a break from blogging

It has been a while since my last blog post. I have to blame a combination of factors, sadly. The first is that the small boy has absolutely, no question, for real dropped his daytime nap (we've had maybe six daytime naps in the last two months). Then I got a paid contract to do a book index, and without a daytime nap all that work had to go on in the evenings, eating into craft time. And when I did get free time, I was eager to create, not blog.

However the index is done, I've got my evenings back, and I can spare some time for the blog.  I have a heap of blog posts planned around recent projects but I'm behind with taking photographs, especially ones of me in outfits, because I need someone more skilled than a toddler to take them.

One topic for which I could take all necessary pictures is my current obsession with Bavarian crochet.
I just sent this lovely potholder off to be sold at Wattle Flat Crafts.

Made with yarn leftover from a vintage hat project, I think the retro colour scheme works well with the kitchen kitsch image of a hanging potholder. The Bavarian crochet pattern has a dense finish that suits the purpose too.

Back view of the potholder, showing the wrong side of the Bavarian crochet.

 I've also been playing around with Bavarian crochet in rows, using some handspun yarn that I was given as a gift several years ago and that has been waiting for a suitable project.

Starting the rows.

 I decided to make a set of cuffs for my planned winter coat. I'm still in the "find a pattern I like" stage of that planning so the cuffs may be waiting for a while yet!

The finished cuffs, waiting for sleeves.

I have enough yarn to make a collar or maybe a hem band as well but I really need a clearer vision for the coat first. At least I've got the start of a colour scheme, and can coordinate the coat fabric to these. I have a vision in my head of an off white coat with a blue lining but I'm reminding myself that there is no use looking at fabrics until I've chosen a pattern. I don't think this coat is being made for this winter but the next.

Presents

This time of year is all about PRESENTS. I'm having lots of fun making things from stash material and a few things from new. Not the easiest to blog about, because of secrecy, but it is so tempting because I'm so excited. I think I've sent photos of each gift as it completes to at least one person.

I have a few already gifted items that I can show off, however.

 I decorated this singlet with crocheted motifs for my new baby niece. She is probably not big enough to fit into it yet!

 The motifs are made with a mix of solid and variegated embroidery floss in pinks and purples, all from stash.

I also decorate some onesies for sleep for N. for his birthday.

this was drawn with fabric markers

Just because I can't resist, a few sneak peek photos from other presents!

I adore this spotty fabric and am so glad I'm using it finally.

Tunisian crochet - what could it be? 

I'm going to have to wait and do a big post Christmas round up of presents. Not long now!

Big Stash-Busting Plans: A Very Stashy Christmas

I am making a major resolution for Christmas this year. Apart from my husband and any geek exchange targets, all other recipients of presents:

•  will be receiving at least 75% handmade items, and

• said items must be either edible or made at least 75% from stash. 

The 75% handmade threshold gives me room to add some bought gifts to the major targets (N, for example) while acting as a restraint on that buying. And for people to whom I'd usually only give one or two gifts, that means all handmade.

The 75% stash threshold is intended to be realistic for projects where I might have to buy some specific trim or fastening or interfacing etc in order to complete a project yet still provide the challenge of restricting the main ideas. (100% stash seems too strict and might lead to substitutions that will adversely affect quality.)

Allowing edible gifts helps me deal with those gift recipients who just don't like more crafty items enough. Or who I know would prefer an ephemeral gift. Not to mention being fun to make.

I'm really excited about this resolution now and am enjoying finding patterns and projects that can work with stash resources to plan presents. I know it is only April but I suspect I'll need all the time I can get!

Recent baby makes

I've actually managed to get some sewing done over the last month!  Mostly items for the little guy, because they work up relatively quickly. It is starting to get easier to do some craft than blog while he's awake, so some of these items have been finished for over a month.

Bibs - I was given a few handmade bibs as a leaving/baby present from one of the customers at work. I didn't really use bibs at first - I just let N. drool and spew over clothes. I had way more clothes for him than bibs.  When he started solids I knew I'd need more but was very time crunched so just decided to buy some.
And I hated them.
About the same time, my sister gave me a lovely Poppy and Belle bib which reinvigorated me to make some of my own. I bought a metre of terry towelling at Lincraft and went to work. My first three are backed with some lovely tales of Beatrix Potter fabric, and unfortunately they turned out a bit wonky. The next three have some cottons from my stash that are less interesting and turned out much more even. Possibly better this way, as the cute print distracts you from the flaws, whereas the plainer fabrics are more unforgiving!

The bibs draped over his high chair - vintage, as it used to be his father's!

Then I used some of the extra terry towelling to make some simple square face/hand cloths for post-meal clean up.


Jackets - many months ago I wrote about UFOs in our old blog, Jupiter Hollow. (And by "many months", I mean "back in 2012".) Listed as 'still want to complete' was a child's cardigan. Finally finished that! I needed to get some extra wool for the collar and while it isn't an exact match I think it is barely noticeable and blends well.

Finally, finally finished!

I made Nate another jacket from a falling-apart dressing gown (handed down to me from my grandmother) consisting of gorgeous narrow woven panels of fabric, Japanese I think.

The lovely fabric I reused for the jacket. 

The pattern I used, from Making Baby Clothes by Robert Merrett (a long ago present from my sister) used a zipper, but I wanted buttons. I ended up using wooden toggle buttons and created buttonhole loops with detached buttonhole over a magic ring.

A close up so you can see the detail of the buttonhole loop. 

The sleeves are too long, but they show the dark lining when rolled up, and this way the jacket should take him all through this winter.

N models his new jacket. 

I have also made a pair of fleece pants (just visible at the bottom of this photograph) but the pattern needs a lot of tweaking - the pants are wearable but I'm not sure I want them to be 'outside' pants yet and I definitely don't want to blog about them yet.  The jacket however I'm very pleased with. He's fascinated by the drawstrings for the hood, and I hope my grandmother will be very happy with the new life of the dressing gown. I've got a small amount of that fabric left, and I'm trying to think of something else to make with it. Any suggestions? I had thought a little clutch purse, but then remembered that I am not a clutch purse type person!

How to not make a sunhat

Which should really be titled "How not to make a sunhat for a baby, with a baby, in two and a half weeks" but they'll never make that movie.

Failure is that much more disspiriting when it happens in 15 minute intervals.

 Day 1: Realise existing sunhat is too small for your four month old son. Think about buying a new one.

Day 3: Scoff at self. Sunhat does not look complicated. Decide to sew new sunhat.

Day 4: Go through stash and choose fabric.

Day 5: Intend to prewash fabric, but then it rains.

Day 6: Actually prewash fabric.

Day 7: Iron fabric.

Day 8: Son has vaccinations. He is cranky and spikes a fever. Forget sunhat exists.

Day 10: Start drafting sunhat pattern.

Day 11: Finish doing so.

Day 12: Cut out fabric pieces.

Days 13-15: Plan to sew hat. Continually forget to take sewing machine out of its storage place while the boy is awake, and don't want to make that racket when he's asleep.

Day 16: Move sewing machine to living room. Find matching thread.

Day 17:  Start sewing hat. Realise that somewhere along the line your maths has failed, as one piece is far too small. Try to patch that up. Make things worse. Realise that you don't have enough fabric to recut the offending pieces. Swear.

Day 18: Take a good long look at the mangled fabric and decide to abandon the project.

Bonus extra:
Day 20: Take previously-crocheted hat with brim, too big for boy. Use safety pin to make smaller. Put on son. Go for a walk.

Stash-busting for the baby

With my last week of work over, I'm turning my attention to a variety of things - getting Parlour Duck crafts underway, working on my assignment for the embroiderer's guild class, and crafting for the baby.
Since I've found out that the baby is almost certainly a boy (the doctor doing the scan said: "I could be wrong. But it would be one of those cases that we write up to use as an example of how we can be really wrong.")  I've had to readjust my crafting ideas - I'd been so sure I was going to have a girl. Oh well. I'm now totally besotted with the idea of my wriggly little boy, so all good. So I've been back through all my magazines and torn out patterns, I've been trawling through free patterns on Ravelry, I've been borrowing books from the library. But before I go crazy and buy a lot of new yarn and fabric, I want to use up what I can from my stash.

My sister sent me a link to a great blog post where the blogger has arranged her stash so seriously, she can make GRAPHS of what is left to use.  Awe-inspiring. For about ten minutes I was drifting in a 'huh, that wouldn't be too hard' daze but then I realised that I'd use organising the stash as another procrastination technique.  Anyway, I dumped out my yarn stash and made a pile of all the yarn I'd either bought to make baby gifts or had left over from previous baby gifts to work out what I had to use up. Turns out, not a great deal.

Baby-project yarns from my yarn stash. 

In fact, the more I handle the soft-spun mohair (the turquoise yarn) the less I'm happy that I ever used it for a baby poncho years ago. It has a slight underlying scratchiness. So that might be used for a grown up project. I made the decision that I didn't have enough of any one yarn - except maybe the very fine cream merino - to do a large project, so these won't make blankets. The cream merino and maybe the pale blue/white/yellow at the front will make cardigan-size projects. The others will go into socks/booties/hats/etc.

I'd forgotten that making baby things could be so quick! I made a hat last Thursday. Grabbed the pattern from my stack of 'torn from magazine' sheets. Grabbed yarn from stash and hook from roll. Started crocheting on the train to work. Continued during the evening minding the counter at the store. By the time my shift was over, the hat was complete apart from weaving in the end, as I hadn't brought a large tapestry needle with me.

Baby hat, made from stash, completed over the course of a day at work. 

Now I'm making some socks from the same yarn, using a pattern that I've made for other people's babies over the years and really liked.  It feels good to be able to add stuff to the baby drawer that I've made for this specific, known-about baby.